I recently mentioned 6 new restaurants that were spawned from other great restaurants, and Martin Boire et Manger is one of them.
When I found out that Au Passage (a hands down favorite), had a new wine bar over by Filles du Calvaire, I knew I’d have to drop all my dining plans and make that happen, stat. And I have a very full dining schedule, as proven by the number of chins that would appear should I ever choose to take a selfie. Which sort of explains what took me so long to get there. I’ve been busy gaining chins.
Au Passage hits all the right notes in things that make me love a restaurant: Fun bustling atmosphere, an always-changing menu, and the knowledge that you will be pleased no matter what lands in front of you. If the kitchen decided to cook a shoe and put some sauce on it, it would become a perennial favorite. And we’d all have a great time, clink glasses across the way, and order another pair of shoes with sauce.
Edward Delling-Williams & Peter Orr have been rocking the Au Passage kitchen (quite literally, you walk in the door and they are cooking up a storm while rocking out, if not dancing, to music blasting from that little kitchen window, which just adds to the already fun atmosphere) in such uninterrupted harmony that I can’t imagine glancing into that window upon arrival and seeing just one of them. Seems like a packaged deal.
Which brings me to my next point: I want to see inside all kitchens. Make it happen, restaurants of the world.That’s not actually the next point. The point is that Edward and Peter are no longer kitchen roommates because Peter got his own apartment (kitchen) at Martin Boire & Manger. (Update: Edward and Peter have each left Au Passage and Martin respectively to pursue other restaurant adventures. Edward opened Le Grand Bain in Belleville, and Peter moonlights at Muscovado and has a project in the works. But Martin Boire et Manger is as as great a deal as ever)
You can find similar fair and a casual fun-loving atmosphere like at Au Passage.
Look at all these people, being casual, and having fun, and loving it.
One of the things I treasure most about French culture is the fresh and market-driven nature of their eating habits. It is so common to see the chalkboard being written up for that day’s dishes, because the chefs are responding to whatever is fresh and creating something new based on that week’s produce. Nothing better.
If you notice all those open windows and free flowing terrace space, you will mentally note that come sun and come summer, outside is where we all want to be. I would dare to say that Martin Boire et Manger is one of the best deals in town. They have a great natural wine list, and on any given night, the place is hustling and bustling, for good reason.
Martin Boire et Manger
24 boulevard du Temple 75011
Lunch Tuesday to Friday 12-3pm
Dinner Tue & Wed 7-11pm; Fri & Sat 7pm-midnight
Small plates served all day on Saturday